＜Atelier JUN & H＞
” Atelier JUN & H” is a dyeing and weaving workshop by Yasuhiro Takahashi(yūzen-dye artist) and Junko Goto (textile artist ).
We created kimono “Tanabatamonyoukatabira” from 2011 to 2015.
“Tanabatamonyoukatabira” reproduces the kimono in the Edo era (18th century).
We referred to the kimono collection of the Kyoto Nationnal Meseum.
We studied the dyeing and weaving techniques at that time in order to reproduce that techniques by ourselves.
Goto wove the cloth. It takes three years to make threads and six months to weave the cloth.
A raw material is a ramie made in Showa village, Fukushima. The ramie fibers were ply-joined into extremely thin threads, and woven in very light fabric (Jyōfu)of 240g for one kimono. Goto use the bamboo reed when goto weave. Number of dent is 17 per 1cm.
Currently, It is famous that “echigojyōfu” and “miyakojyōfu” as an Important Intangible Cultural Property in Japan. Jyōfu means that high-quality cloth of hemp or ramie material.
And, we bleached the cloth with a natural technique by sunlight. We bleached in the same way as the Edo period.
This way is called “Tenpisarashi (sun bleaching) “. The dye of ramie fibers are oxidized and decomposed when sunlight and water vapor through the cloth. It is a natural way to remove color from bast fiber. As a result, the cloth turns white.
Today, the way of chemical bleaching is generally used. It is excellent that the texture of the cloth can be maintained by sun bleaching. Because,the method is less damage to the fiber.
Takahashi dyed the cloth by the Japanese ‘yūzen‘ technique(Itomeyūzen)using a natural dye. The technique of Itomeyūzen is time-consuming work among the traditional dyeing techniques of Kyoto ” yūzen dyeing “.
Takahashi put the glutinous rice paste into a cylindrical tool called “tsutsu”,and squeezed the glue from the metal cap attached to the tip of “tsutsu”, and outlined the pattern, dyed into enclosed space by the glue. As a result, the part of the glue (the threadlike line) was reserved in white.
It requires high technique to put a very thin threadlike paste as he do.
Using the natural dye used in the Edo era, Takahashi creates all colors by mixing four colors which are red from Vermilion, yellow from Garcinia cambogia, blue from Chinese indigo and black from sumi -Japanese ink-.
This is very rare in the current.
Yūzen production is usually division of labor, but he does his work from the beginning to the end (design, underdrawing a sketch, putting a glue, dyeing color and finishing) by himself
This is a high quality production with the good sense of design and the best technique.
Takahashi also tailor the kimono. In Japanese dressmaking ” Kosode”, which is a lady’s formal kimono in summer. Kosode is dressmaking of no swing sleeves.
Above is a description of “Tanabatamonyoukatabira”, which is the joint work of Takahashi and Goto. The other products are made by Takahashi.
As a craftsman of Kyoto Yūzen, Takahashi produced not only the hemp or ramie material, but also a number of a silk “houmongi (visiting dress )” and obi.
Takahashi learned general Yūzen under Housen Kawakami (Yuzen dye artist) in a school of Yūzen “Ogura” after graduating from high school.
Then Takahashi became independent. Takahashi produced a kimono, together with the work to receive order of dyeing and finishing. Takahashi got the exhibition winners at the public exhibition.
Takahashi also got many winners in the contest sponsored by major department store and gained trust of clients.
As a result of participation in the restoration of a dyeing, Takahashi advanced the natural dyeing techniques for thread and cloth.
Currently, Takahashi creates stoles, accessories, shop curtain and baby clothes responding to a variety of orders.
“Atelier JUN & H” continue to create the original products at the workshop in Kyoto and respond to a variety of order.
Goto will weave the “jyōfu” cloth production at the workshop in ashikita town Kumamoto Prefecture which is suitable for weaving.
About personal history of Takahashi
1947 Born in Kyoto
1990 The restoration project of Kosode, the study of ancient dyeing techniques using natural dye
1992 Takahashi was invited as a Shiroage Yūzen technique holder by the exhibition called a ‘konohitokonosakuhin‘ that was jointly organized by Kyoto Prefecture and ALL JAPAN KIMONO PROMOTING ASSOCIATION and Kyoto Orisyo Members.
1993 “Biwatouhouyori(beauty from the East)” exhibition in Paris, France
1997 The products by ShiroageYūzen technique, called the ” Natugoromo(summer kimono)” , It is Kosode style by hemp or ramie material.
1999 “Kyoyūzen kinou kyou asita (Kyoto Yūzen Yesterday, Today and Tomorrow)” Exhibition (sponsored by Meguro Museum of Art,Tokyo)
2000 “Takumi project of Southeast Asia” （ organized by UNESCO）, Research and technical coach of natural dyes, the dyeing and weaving in Thailand and Laos
2001 “Takumi project of Southeast Asia Forum in Kyoto” , held a workshop of natural dyeing together with Ms.nusara
Takahashi was invited by “W,E,F,T Forum in Malaysia”（ organized by UNESCO）, held a workshop of natural dyeing as an technical coach and held a fashion show called “ Natugoromo(summer kimono)”
2002 “ Natugoromo(summer kimono) for entertainment show ” was performed in Osaka together with Dance, music, ‘Shitsurai(room decoration art)’ Artist. Its theme was ” Kosode–Yū–Sou–Mai “(kimono ,playing for the act of communicating with a deity, music, dance)
2003 ” Yūzen kimono excellent work Exhibition at Fusyunkan in Ōita”(one-person show)
Exhibition at Gallery and shop Terra in Kyoto together with Fumio Tamura(Japanese gardener) and Naoko Tamura(wool lace artist)
2004 Held a workshop of natural dyeing at Amanogoya in Minamata―Kumamoto Prefecture
2005 “Kumamoto Prefectural Culture Festival”, held a workshop of natural dyeing in Minamata
Held two workshops of natural dyeing at Karamusinosato in Fukushima―Showa village
2006 “Symposium and workshops of the Taramabana (safflower) ” as a technical coach that was jointly organized by Okinawa―Tarama island and Nununu Panapana(the group of dyeing and weaving artists)
Workshop of natural dyeing in Okinawa―Haebaru town(organized by Nununu Panapana) as a technical coach
” Natural dyeing red colors of the world ” Exhibition at Gallery and shop Terra in Kyoto(one-person show)
“Natural Dyes and Pigments Conference in Hyderabad,India, ” natural dyeing red colors of the world ” Exhibition
Research and Guidance for the TVS banana project in the State of Tamil Nadu, India
” Natural dyeing red colors of the world ” Exhibition for the event in Saga(sponsored by Saga city)
About personal history of Goto
1981 Born in Osaka
2005 BA: Kyoto City University of Fine Arts, Faculty of Applied Art
Study the method of making ramie yarn under Ms.Hide Irisuji at Tarama island in Okinawa
2006 Start making yarn used a ramie fibers made in Showa village,Fukushima.
2011 Weaved the cloth as trial product of “Tanabatamonyoukatabira” in ashikita town Kumamoto Prefecture
2014 Weaved the cloth for one kimono at Furuishi, in ashikita town Kumamoto Prefecture
2014 Bleached the cloth with a natural technique by sunlight at Kyoto Bunkyo University,
in Kyoto―Uji city
2015 Lectures on ” People of the Yayoi Period―the weaving course” at Moriyama Shimonogou Archeological Park, in Moriyama city
Article in a publication
- Textile information alpha June 2015 . Kyoto：sensyokutoseikatusha Co., Ltd.
- Textile information alpha August 2015 . Kyoto：sensyokutoseikatusha Co.,Ltd.
- Textile information alpha October 2015 . Kyoto：sensyokutoseikatushaCo.,Ltd.
About history of Atelier JUN & H
November 3 to 8, 2011, ” Tananohataya Exhibition 2011 in Furuishi ” in ashikita town Kumamoto Prefecture
June 13 to 14, 2014, ” Public weaving work 2014 at goto’s atelier ” in ashikita town Kumamoto Prefecture
May 25 to May 31, 2015, “Tananohataya Exhibition 2015 in OkuAizu Showa village” in Fukushima Prefecture
June 20, 2015, ” Tananohataya Exhibition 2015 at Gallery Kinrinkan ” in Kyoto
August 2 to August 10, 2015, “ Tananohataya Exhibition 2015 at Gallery Terra” in Kyoto
October 16 to 19, 2015, ” Tananohataya Exhibition 2015 at Furuishi ” in ashikita town Kumamoto Prefecture
August 6 to 12, 2016, exhibition in the event “Kyono Tanabata” (organized by Kyoto city): in the Nijo Castle “Ninomaru gotten daidokoro (Palace Kitchen)”―World Heritage Site